Welcome to the world of drapery lingo! Learning the specialized terminology used in the drapery industry will help you communicate effectively with designers, workrooms, installers, and vendors. This comprehensive guide covers key drapery terms for fabrics, styles, hardware, and construction to make you fluent in the language of drapes.
Fabrics
The fabric is the foundation of any drapery project, so familiarize yourself with common drapery textiles and their properties.
Drapery Fabrics
Upholstery fabric – Typically heavier weight fabrics like chenille, velvet, brocade used for upscale drapery panels. Provides richness, depth of color, luxury look.
Home decorator fabrics – Medium weight cottons, rayons, blends like jacquards, prints, solids used for casual to formal drapes. Versatile, affordable option.
Sheers – Lightweight, semi-transparent fabrics like voile, organdy, polyester sheers and two-toned vimini. Softens light, provides privacy.
Lining – Usually polyester or cotton sateen lining fabric. Improves drape, protects from sun damage.
Interlining – Added layer of fabric between face fabric and lining for increased body, insulation.
Blackout lining – Special dark-colored acrylic or poly backing to block light. Used for bedrooms, media rooms.
Weaves
Plain – Simple over-under weave with flat surface and matte finish. Common in cottons and linens.
Twill – Diagonal parallel ribs. Denser and more textured than plain weave. Used in drapery and upholstery fabrics.
Jacquard – Intricate designs and patterns woven into the fabric. Creates interest and visual texture.
Brocade – Decorative designs embellished with contrasting raised threads in metallic or colored yarns.
Damask – Reversible fabric with elaborate floral, paisley or geometric designs. Used for formal curtains.
Tapestry – Heavy, decorative woven fabric like damask but with non-reversible pattern. Adds richness to a room.
Velvet – Soft plush fabric with a thick short dense pile giving it a luxurious look. Available in silk, cotton, linen, rayon, poly blends.
Faux Silk/Satin – Synthetic polyester fabric with a silk-like sheen and drape. Affordable alternative to silk.
Seersucker – Lightweight fabric with alternating puckered and flat stripes lending a casual, rumpled look. Most often cotton or rayon.
Chintz – Closely woven glazed plain weave cotton with bright floral prints. Used for informal window treatments.
Fibers
Cotton – Natural fiber that is breathable, soft, durable and easy to clean.
Linen – Natural fiber made from flax that is lightweight, absorbent, durable and formal looking. Wrinkles easily.
Silk – Elegant natural fiber known for its beautiful drape, sheen and longevity. More expensive option.
Rayon – Manufactured fiber made from cellulose that drapes well. Available in varied price points and qualities.
Polyester – Synthetic petroleum-based fiber that resists fading, stretching and wrinkling.
Acetate – Manufactured fiber made from plant cellulose used for drapes that mimic silk.
Acrylic – Synthetic petroleum-based fiber that resembles wool. Has bounce-back and resiliency.
Nylon – Strong synthetic fiber known for its durability. Often used in blackout linings.
Olefin/Polyolefin – Synthetic petroleum-based fiber like polypropylene used in outdoor drapery fabrics for its weather resistance.
Microfiber – Very fine synthetic fiber usually made from polyester or polyamide. Features a suede-like hand and is durable.
Weights
Lightweight – Sheers, some silks and blends. Flow easily, let in light.
Medium weight – Cottons, linens, rayons. Have good body and drape. Versatile weight for most drapes.
Heavyweight – Brocades, velvets, tapestries. Hold their shape well, insulate and absorb sound. Best for formal treatments.
Styles
When talking drapes, know the style terminology that identifies the look and function.
Length
Floor length – Extends to the floor for a formal look. Puddles onto floor slightly.
Sill/Apron length – Ends around sill height, just below window frame. Lets in light.
Café length – Extends to bottom of chair rail, about 30 inches long. Casual style.
Ceiling length – Goes from top of rod to the ceiling, anchors whole wall. Makes a statement.
Puddle – Extra fabric that collects on floor for a luxurious effect.
Shaping
Tiered – Two or more curtain panels hung at varying lengths on separate rods. Provides layered look.
Ripplefold – Zigzag style with ripples along length. Relaxed casual gathered effect.
Pencil pleat – Narrow doubled inverted pleats spaced closely together. Gives a tailored look.
Cartridge pleat – Wide soft gathered pleats achieve a lush, luxurious effect. Formal style.
Grommets – Metal rings inserted into fabric to hang on rod. Give an industrial modern look.
Inverted pleat – Pleats folded inward toward window. Allows curtain to stack narrower to sides.
Pinch pleat– Two inverted pleats sewn close together. Gives a sleek, elegant look.
Thermalined– Lined with insulating fabric for energy efficiency. Popular for cold climates.
Scalloped – Curved or semi-circular lower edge. Pretty detail for a kitchen or girl’s room.
Ladder tapes – Fabric strips sewn into back of drapes to run on rings or grommets.
Tiebacks/Holdbacks – Decorative cords, tassels or medallions to tie curtains back from window.
Fullness
Sheer – Light, unlined treatments need minimal fullness. Often 1.5 to 2 times width.
Light Filtering – Unlined curtains need moderate fullness around 2.5 times width. Softly filters light.
Room Darkening – Unlined opaque fabrics need fullness up to 3 times width to prevent light gaps.
Blackout Lined – Layered and lined treatments need minimal fullness, about 1.5 to 2 times width.
Hardware
The right hardware ensures your drapes hang properly and function smoothly.
Rod Types
Tension rod – Spring loaded adjustable rod inserts into brackets to fit window. No mounting required.
Traverse rod – Hardware system with pulleys to draw open and closed. Operated with cords.
Curtain rod – Simple round or decorative pole on brackets. Most common window treatment rod.
Curved rod – Rod shaped in arch or half-circle floor to ceiling style. Used on wide windows and room dividers.
Double rod – Two small rods positioned one above the other. Allows sheer and opaque curtains.
Mount Types
Wall mount – Brackets attached to wall around window frame. Most standard mounting method.
Ceiling mount – Rod attached to ceiling over window with wire cables and anchors. Provides floor to ceiling hanging drapes.
Recess mount – Rod installed within window recess or inside frame. Discreet look with drapes completely covering window area.
Corner mount – Rod extended from corner of room to opposite wall. Works well for room dividers and privacy.
Decorative Finials
Ornamental end caps for curtain rods that add visual interest:
- Wood turnings
- Metal balls, spheres, acorns
- Scrolls, leaves, finials
- Glass, crystal orbs
- Ceramic figurines
Draw Options
No draw – Stationary rod without operating mechanism. Drapes are pulled open and closed manually.
Cord draw – Beaded chain cords to open and close curtains from one or both sides. Available as continuous loop or two separate pulls.
Wand draw – Control wand slides along rod to draw curtains open or closed. Rotating wand can provide partial closure.
Traversing draw – Loop pull cords operate smooth traverse system to glide curtains side to side on rod. More complex operation than standard draw styles.
Construction
Drapery construction determines the function and quality. Know the lingo for how drapes are expertly made and hung.
Lining
Unlined – Single layer of fabric provides some privacy but mainly filters light. More casual style.
Lined – Additional layer of lining fabric improves opacity, feel, and drape. Upgrade for enhanced look and function.
Interlined – Extra layer of fabric between main fabric and lining provides added weight, insulation and sound absorption. Used in blackout drapes or for energy efficiency and noise reduction.
Backing – Blackout film laminated to back of fabric to prevent light shining through. Also can be added as backing lining.
Self-lined – Curtain has contrasting print or color on reverse side so it appears lined when closed. No need for separate lining fabric.
Hems
blindstitch – Nearly invisible hand sewing stitch used on drapery hems. Gives clean finish without topstitching.
double folded – Hem turned under twice for added weight and clean, durable edge. Common drapery hem finish.
double welted – Two welted hem folds made using welting cords. Upscale detail seen on formal drapes.
interlined hem – Hem includes added layer of lightweight fabric between folds. Helps hem drape better.
Side Seams
French Seam – Curtain panels sewn together with wrong sides out, then folded over so seams are fully enclosed for a clean finish and no raw edges.
Serged Seams – Seams stitched then overlocked with a serger sewing machine for durability and stretch resistance. Quick construction method.
Lapped Seams – Overlapped and topstitched seams provide reinforcement and strength. Ideal for heavyweight drapes that will hang straight without stretching out.
Top Treatment
Rod pocket – Channel sewn into drapery header fits over curtain rod for easy hanging. Most common method.
Back tabs – Fabric loops sewn onto back corners of drapes contain rod for quick install and removal for cleaning.
Header tape – Narrow strip of sturdy fabric edge stitched into top of curtain to reinforce hang and keep shape.
Grommets – Metal rings inserted into holes in drape top to slide onto specialty traverse rod systems.
Tie tops – Curtain tops attached to drapery pins spaced along the rod. Enable adjustable gathering when drawn.
Bottom Weights
Chain weight – Heavy ball chain inserted into hem at bottom corners or spaced across width helps drapes hang straight and prevents billowing.
Tassel weight – Decorative knotted tassels attached at lower hemline serve as subtle weights to keep shape.
Lead weight – Small dense weights sewn into bottom hem add gravitational pull so drapes hang straighter.
How to Speak the Lingo of Drapery
Now that you know the key terminology, here are some tips for speaking confidently about drapes:
- Read up on drapery terms and fabrics before meeting with workrooms or vendors so you can knowledgeably discuss project details.
- Bring drapery swatches to show workrooms when explaining your desired look and function. Having samples helps communicate fabric characteristics.
- Clarify specifications like which pleat styles and lengths you prefer for the window treatments. Providing photos also helps convey your vision.
- Ask about lining and interlining needs to achieve the proper light control and privacy. Request backing or blackout lining if room darkening is important.
- Inquire about weight and quality of header tape and side seams for durability. Reinforced drapes will maintain their shape well long-term.
- Discuss optimal fullness and draw needs for the window sizes to ensure proper functionality. This affects how the drapes operate.
- Consider the right hardware and mounting for the window location and your decor. Coordinate finials and hardware finishes with the room style.
- Use industry terms properly like “cartridge pleat,” “ripplefold,” “traverse rods,” and “thermalined” when collaborating with designers and workrooms. They will recognize you know what you want.
- Ask knowledgeable questions about construction methods for hems, side seams, top treatments and weighting to assess quality.
- Having a clear vision and speaking the lingo makes it easier to get the custom drapes you want from workrooms and vendors. Knowing the terminology helps ensure your needs are met!
Frequently Asked Questions About Drapery Lingo
What are some key differences between home decorator fabrics and upholstery fabrics for drapes?
Home decorator fabrics like cottons and linen-look rayons are lighter weight, available in a wide variety of prints and colors, and well suited for casual to refined drapery styles. Upholstery fabrics like brocades, velvets and chenille are heavier in weight, have a more formal look, and provide a richer, more luxurious look for window treatments. Upholstery fabrics are also more durable and retain their shape well.
What is seersucker fabric typically used for in window treatments?
Seersucker is the quintessential warm weather fabric known for its casual, rumpled texture. The alternating puckered and flat stripes are ideal for laidback curtains in bedrooms, kitchens, porches and kids’ rooms. Seersucker drapes diffuse light well while lending a breezy, relaxed vibe.
Should drapes be lined or unlined? What are the pros and cons?
Lined drapes provide more insulation from cold and heat, light blocking if opaque fabric, and an enhanced look and feel. However, lining does add cost and weight. Unlined drapes have a more casual look, allow some light to filter through, and are lighter weight. It depends on the needs of the specific window. Sheers are typically unlined while blackout drapes should always be lined.
What is the difference between pinch pleats and pencil pleats in curtains?
Pencil pleats are narrow, doubled inverted pleats densely spaced together for a tailored look. Pinch pleats have two inverted pleats very close together almost “pinched” into one. This creates subtle definition while still allowing drapes to stack tightly at the sides. Pinch pleats have a smoother, more elegant look than busy pencil pleats.
When should drapes be interlined and what are the benefits?
In very cold climates, interlining adds insulation and conserves energy. It also provides body, structure, and sound absorption. Decorative drapes in formal dining rooms and similar spaces may be interlined to help them maintain their shape and pleating. The extra layer builds weight and fullness. Blackout interlining is always necessary when room darkening is needed.
What is the recommended drapery fullness for a living room with two 100″ wide windows?
For light filtering, unlined drapes in a spacious room like a living room, a fullness of around 2.5 times the window width is ideal. For two 100” windows, the panels should each be approximately 250″ wide to provide optimal flow and a soft gathered look when opened. This fullness will enable the drapes to stack attractively at the sides while allowing some light through.
Conclusion
I hope this detailed guide has equipped you with expertise on drapery lingo! You should now feel comfortable navigating terminology for fabrics, styles, construction methods, hardware and more. Fluency in the language of drapes will ensure your vision is communicated and well-executed by workrooms. Refer to this article as your go-to drapery dictionary for all your custom window treatment projects to come!
